Lady Mac

After ten days of trying we actually got a good flight in off of Lady Mac above Canmore. Josh, Kim, Jerome and I hiked up, moving slow due to Josh having a blown knee. Cruised along, ended up launching at about 1:00, I got yanked into the sky. It was interesting flying, fairly windy at base (about 3,800M), but with big thermals to block the wind. It's always fantastic to get to fly in the Canmore area, big peaks with snow, love that action! The photo is looking east toward Calgary, Cougar Creek is the main drainage. It's officially really flying season again, finally!

Skaha, Hedley, the Muppet Show

Back home. It's been the spring of road trips, partly due to shite weather here in Canmore and partly just to listen to the tires on the road. I'm trying to shoot with photographer Jerome for the Gin catalog, but we've really flown only one day in the past eight, too windy the rest of the time. We did get a short flight in at Hedley, but it ended quickly when Jerome flew out into the valley and went backwards for a bit. He wisely choose to side-hill land in the lee to escape the valley wind. I watched all this while thermalling above him, then did the same. The air was not friendly. Later I learned that Keremeos, the name of the next town up the valley, means "really windy place" in the local native language (seriously). The Hedley valley is a relatively V-shaped valley surrounded by high plateaus; you couldn't design a better place for valley winds. It will have exceptional flying some days, but in general it's not a place I'd recommend for inexperienced pilots unfamiliar with valley winds and how to escape them. That said, our three days in Hedley were great; fun locals, lots of climbing, kayaking, hiking, gold mine tours, it's just a great town and one I look forward to visiting more in the future. The options are endless.

A lot of what I love about road-tripping comes from the people I get to travel with. In Hedley we met up with the full "Muppet Show" from the west coast. I think the name started with my bud Jim O, as we are indeed muppets on strings when flying paragliders. Anyhow, the Muppet Show varies in size and composition but includes an incredible chef, AKA the Dingo. The Dingo cooks at the best restaurant in Whistler, and travels with coolers of top-notch food and the ability to put together the best food I've ever eaten. But the real highlight is watching the Dingo cook, it's a Cirque de Soleil style festival of speed, alcohol and general culinary madness that only reaches fruition when the food hits your mouth. Thanks to the Dingo!! The rest of the Muppet show knows how to erect a nylon refugee camp in ten minutes flat using vehicles, kayak paddles and whatever else is handy. There's an art to nomadic living, and the Muppets have it down to a joyous science. Many of my best hours have been spent camping in apparent squalor but with a standard of life far higher than I find while occasionally staying at the fanciest hotels in the world. It might seem a bit trite to say, but I always return from trips with the Muppet show reminded that real life is best found outside with friends.

On Wednesday Jerome and I stopped off at Skaha while driving to Lumby and shredded ourselves running from route to route. Skaha is a hobbit land of fun climbs; we stoppeed climbing only when our skin was bleeding and the sun faded into a blue evening. I was so worked I couldn't even climb a relatively easy route, I love that!

Thursday was spent in the company of Randy at the Lumby Air Park, always a pleasure, and we even flew twice betweeen rain storms. Lumby offers the most reliable soaring in Canada I think. It's not the best place for competitions due to the variable weather, but those variations almost always produce at least a couple of hours of soaring conditions, it's amazing. I've spent months there over the last four years, it's starting to feel a bit like home thanks to Randy and the good scene there. We had to seperate from the Muppet show and head up home at night, now Jerome and I are back in Canmore and watching the wind howl yet again. I really hope we get to fly the next couple of days!

WG

Hedley, BC

Hedley is located in the middle of nowhere, also known as southern BC. It might be worth taking the time to look it up on a map--Hedley is one amazing place. In the last two days we've done some excellent granite bouldering, crack climbing (10-foot roof with a wild crack) plus some kayaking and nice mountain running. The town is full of characters and loose nuts shaken here by various storms, a nice change from increasingly homogenous Canmore. We've been treated very well by the people here, I know I'll spend more time here in the future on the basis of the people I've met.

No flapping for the last two days but, but lots to do so no stress. Today doesn't look too special, but you never know!

wg

AIR

Jerome Maupoint, author of the beautiful paragliding book "Stolen Moments" is in town shooting for a week or so. Yesterday we flew Swansea near Invermere, fantastic day, four hours of turning circles above very snowy peaks. Light winds, good lift, it was about as good as it gets in the spring. Josh flew the Zulu, I flew the new Boomerang Sport.

My favorite part of the flight was playing over the top of a ridge down near Fairmont--the tops of the ridges still look mid-winter, big whipped cream rolls of snow everywhere, plus the snow mellows the thermals out a bit making it more reasonable to fly close to the ground, a rare treat and something I normally avoid like the plague in the Golden-Canal flats area. It wasn't even too cold at altitude, but I was dressed in Himalaya-style clothing in anticipation of suffering. Thanks to Tobias and the nutter mountain bike crew for the lift up the hill too.

The Sport is one silky and intuitive glider. It normally takes me a few flights to figure out a new glider, but I felt totally at home on it after only a couple of hours of thermalling. I flew several DHV 2/3 gliders a few years back and liked them at first, but ultimately decided DHV 2/3 gliders mainly offered the performance of a 2 and all the danger of a 3. So far the Boom Sport provides enough feel of the air for me to keep it inflated, without requiring nearly as much attention as the full comp Boomerangs. The Sport feels more like the Boom III than the Boom IV, especially on the speed bar where it seems to "firm up" and remain stable. We had to use a fair amount of bar to get back to Swansea, my 5020 said the performance stayed relatively good on bar. The "feel" was good too, the Sport stays pitch stable when cutting through chop upwind, that's where the difference between a comp glider and a DHV 2 is usually most apparent. I'll write a bit more about it after I get some more hours on it.

I'll post some photos later, we're out the door to have at it again today. I love spring flying!

Atlanta, back home

Houseboat on Lake Lanier, Bruce photo.

Atlanta: wore me out.

It’s been a great couple of days here in Atlanta, with a lots of new experiences. Giving a “alpine start” show at 7:00 in the morning was a first, but I didn’t see too many people nodding off, and I’m still thinking about my tour of the hospital with Dr. R, it was educational.

A week ago I was climbing cracks in Indian Creek, Utah, where I had to shake the sand out of my sleeping bag with bloody hands before bed; in Atlanta I’ve had to eat the mints on my pillow to get into the thick sheets of the Ritz Carlton, real hardship, but I’ve managed. Plush hotels always feel mixed to me--very nice, but the reality is that my sandy sleeping bag was at least as luxurious as the Ritz, and the morning caffeine went down easier with a view of red rocks and the possibility of a day grinding yet more skin off my hands. Luxury for me has nothing to do with thread count or valet service; luxury is waking up with an easy mind and a wide-open day. Still, the mints were tasty...

Wednesday’s outdoor activities were curtailed by rain here in Atlanta, but in the evening I went to the Climbing Shop/ Wall Crawlerz gym and met up with one of the owners, Tim, to get a boulder session on. I’d also had a box of the new Scarpa shoes shipped there, I always love opening big-ass boxes of new gear. The new Scarpa climbing shoes look wicked, definitely the best rock shoes I’ve seen out of Scarpa in a long time. I’ll write some more on that once I’ve used them a bit more. Tim and a few locals beat the hell out of me in Wall Crawlerz for a few hours, it’s got great bouldering and a motivated crew of locals. The high humidity (the locals said it was low…) conditions destroyed my skin quickly, but good fun. Went out for beers with Tim and Dr. Dan from the AMC and his family, Atlanta is a rocking city at night in comparison to Canmore, good fun.

Thursday was a “perfect” three-sport day. I hooked up with a couple of the “Bad Apple” paramotorheads, led by Bruce. Bruce has a really nice houseboat on Lake Lanier, we ended up flying his motor near the lake and having a great afternoon of it. Perfect smooth 400fpm thermals, warm air, hell yeah! Thanks to Bruce and Worth, that was one fun afternoon! From there I drove over to Stone Mountain with the idea of getting a run and quick solo up the 500-foot rock dome on. Stone Mountain is Yosemite-style granite dome about 20 minutes from Atlanta, I’d always wanted to climb it, and figured there would be some good trail running around the base. It was a bit weird when I got to Stone Mountain—no climbing anchors, no trails to the base of the wall, weird. I ran around for about 30 minutes trying to find a way to get to the base of the cliff, but was thwarted by bush and poison ivy. Eventually I worked my way into the cliff and soloed an easy but fun slab line in the perfect evening light. Strangely, there was a line chipped into the cliff at about 100 feet off the deck, but there’s also a huge chipped carving in the middle of the main face so I didn’t think too much of it. As I topped out and hopped over the mesh fence a guy came up and said, “Ah, there’s no climbing allowed here, you can be arrested for that! Didn’t you see the “no climbing line?” Oh, so that’s what the line was… It all worked out OK, but I think it’s insane that climbing is illegal on public lands. The top of the dome has almost alpine-style vegetation (and a tram), it's definitely worth a visit. Finished out the day with another session at Wall Crawlerz with Tim and the Thursday night boulder crew, some strong youths there! I was left barely able to hold my beer glass.

Back home in Canmore now, thanks to the many good people who helped out in Atlanta!

Workouts: Steady bouldering in the gyms (thanks to Tim, Zach and Wall Crawlerz), one day on the rock, lots of Yoga and running. Finally getting some finger strength back, it sure does take more time than it did when I was 21.

Atlanta, Rockies Accident, Risk

I'm in Atlanta, Georgia for a couple of days, nice to see all the green grass and full spring. Spent this morning doing a talk for Dr. R. and the staff at the Atlanta Medical Center, and then toured the hospital a bit with Dr. R. Very interesting to see the "inside" of a hospital, there are a lot of very talented and dedicated people working very hard. I definitely felt a bit selfish--I climb and fly, write and teach, but these men and women are genuinely making a huge positive impact with each person wheeled through the doors. I generally only see hospitals when visiting friends there, it was educational, thanks to Dr. R. and his staff for the experience--one of the things I love about speaking is that I get to meet some very different people, I sometimes feel I'm the one who should be paying for the experience. I'm hooking up with some local paragliders and climbers for some activities later today in the Atlanta area, should be fun!

Risk:

Here's an interesting article on risk, it does a good job of explaining something I've felt but not clearly understood: People change their behaviour depending on perceived risk.

Another sad accident on Deltaform (near Lake Louise, Alberta)

There was a sad accident on Deltaform last week involving two climbers from the US. I had corresponded with one of them about Rockies conditions before they came up, then found out the man died a week later. Both partners succeeded on Deltaform but were caught in a bad slide on the way down. One climber somehow lived despite the slide, bad injuries and spending a couple of nights out with those injuries. I'm always sorry to hear of accidents in the Rockies, the emails asking for information were positive and showed the climber's excitment. Risk and reward, life and death, joy and pain, these pairs of experiences are so closely linked. The deceased sounds like a good guy just hitting his stride in the mountains, I wish his friends and family some peace. Spring snow conditions in the Rockies are dynamic and highly variable, play safe out there.

Workouts

Did the plane sit program yesterday, but it's been a good month, the rock fitness is coming back as well my lungs, spring just fires me right up every year.

Aviation and primates

The weather here in Canmore is incredible, blue splitter days with low winds, warm temps, perfect for all recreation. Hiked up Lady MacDonald, the local Canmore paragliding site, for the first the time yesterday, it's so good to get back into the air. Flying in these mountains is just so damn good when it's good, today also looks good, yeah!

Here's some humor for all you monkeys.

Workouts: Climbing lots, hiking up a big hill with a paraglider, running, even mountain biking finally. This time of year is great, all these new sports open up again, yeah!

A good day to remember

A few weeks ago I was thinking about Spring, and it hit me that it's been a year since my friend Chris Muller died. I marked the date on my calendar not with a heavy heart but with a, "Hey, remember the good stuff" feeling. Today my calendar reminded me again, and the cold, snowy spring morning seemed to fit with the mood. I love seeing fresh snow, it always seems so hopeful and full of promise to me for some reason, and that's how I often felt around Chris.

So here's to Chris and my other friends and family who make life better! I'm going to go for a run in the snow, the sun's coming out, it's a good day to remember and celebrate both the soul-shaking glory and impenetrable darkness of life.

-April 22nd, a good day to remember.

Back North

Busted out the drive from Moab to Canmore via Salt Lake City over the last couple of days. I like long drives, scenery passing by, a 10-hour drive is far better than a 10-hour flight.

The final two days in Moab were good fun, we had trashed our hands so thoroughly that we had to spend another day up in Mill Creek, a decent old-school sport area above Moab. It's supposed to be a secret 'cause, "if word gets out the whole world will show up!" Well, the whole world was already there plus their dogs and it was still fun. Mill Creek is a fun area but a bit aggressive on the fingertips--perfect for balancing crack pain out over the rest of the hands. I survived some brutal local sandbagging and had a great day out with a horde of people. I learned that one of the routes that beat me up was actually rated 12c/d, and that another "12a" I'd onsighted was 12c. The more I climb the more I laugh at grades, it's all a mess in any form of climbing. I'd like to be good enough to just climb whatever lines looked best and ignore the numbers, maybe by the fall I will be, although paragliding season is likely to turn me into a doughboy again...

The highlight of the last couple of days was a great run up above Moab in wild evening desert light. It was Jeep safari week while we were down there, I ran by a bunch of jeep heads beating hell out of their vehicles--that was a surreal contrast with the general silence and colours of the desert. Later they passed me as I did a yoga session in the dirt beside the road, I think I was more alien to them than they were to me--I can get my redneck on, but a guy in tights doing yoga in the dirt sure perplexed them.

Stopped by BD to check out new designs and gear, saw some very cool stuff. Just when I think everything is evolved as it's going to get it all changes... Kolin has been doing some research on used slings and biners, check this out. I like the fact that most of the people at BD are truly climbers--Kolin started doing this to check his own safety on used gear, good information.

Also stopped by Superfly, always good to see Chris, Jeff and the real mastermind, Beci. Greg and I started driving home in a raging snowstorm, fully 'pine conditions, then cruised into Canmore on a warm, sunny day. It was like Canmore was south of SLC and not the other way around.

Thanks to all the Canmorons and Moab locals who made the last ten days so much fun, great trip!!!

Canyonlands redux

There's nothing like calling home and hearing that it's snowy there... Still sunny and warm here in Moab, although we had biblical winds last night that turned our campsite into a garbage mess and ripped up a few tents. Sand everywhere, it reminds me of a theory I read once that the Anasazi commonly died young because their teeth were too worn down from eating sand-filled food. I can see the truth in that idea after munching sand for a while, I'm starting to notice flavour differences; desert patina, Cutler vs Dakota, they all taste different... Not really, but sand is a integral part of the culinary experience here.

We had to take a break from cracks on Thursday and went into Mill Creek with the ever-psyched Lisa, who pointed a team of us at various routes. Mill Creek is a great place to climb, a lush oasis (still some snow down there despite the new leaves and sun) after the starkness of Canyonlands. Lev is close to senind "The Bleeding," an old Noah Bigwood route that hasn't seen a second ascent despite some good efforts, he again came close but no chains. Good to see him and Lisa as always, we had so much fun that we destroyed our fingertips, so it was back to Canyonlands on Friday, a hot day.

I talked to two of Moab's more prolific crack climbers last rest day, and they told me their secrets to climbing hard cracks: Aspirin and tape. Yep, even the pros find the harder cracks painful, it's not just my wussy ice climber skin and feet...

We were going to head up to the Optimator buttress but it was in the sun, so Greg, Ben and a new arrival, Nathan, and I headed to whatever buttress is across the drainage from Optimator. A couple of Aspirin, lots of tape, and a fun 5.10 corner later I was fired up to try something a little harder. Greg and Nathan had both had a go at a supposed 5.10+ just down the way, and then I had the battle of the trip on it, green Camalots on bad rock (we trundled a small car out of the start) to Red cams (OK). I got up to where it was supposed to turn Gold cams (good hands) and found another 25 feet of overhanging green cams, of which I luckily had two. I got excited and sent it with some choice words, definitely the hardest thing I've succeeded on this trip. Ben made me feel better by also using self-encouraging words on it. It felt like an exam or something, I was happy to get by with a pass if not an A for technique. The tape and Aspirin are essential, thanks to Dean and Steph for that info, I've never used Aspirin for rock climbing before, it's key for nasty cracks.

We then had a cool hike contouring around the drainage to the Optimator buttress; it was cool because it's very shady, lots of green grass, little seeps under huge soaring rock buttresses, I'll remember that hike for a long time. The contrasts in the desert are what make it so special I think, green and red, blue and white, the boundaries between the colors are sharper down here.

At the Optimator buttress we found a very cool overhanging crack on the back of a big block, Annaki or some thing (I don't have a guide down here, just climb what looks cool, so all names are phonetic guesses based off what people are saying). Annankai is the best single-pitch crack I've ever climbed, steep, good pulls, good gear, not painful. Ben and I both sent it first go, then did a few victory laps on it 'cause it was just so much fun to monkey around on the steep jams. I'd spend the rest of my life climbing cracks if they were all like that! You've gotta do that route if you're ever in the area, it's stellar!

Today we're thrashed, we've been 2 on, one off cycle since before leaving Canmore, time for a rest day. It was a bit sad breaking down camp this morning, the Canadian Invasion is splintering apart. Steve and Paul are on the road for a while longer as are Ben and Sarah, Erica and the other Sarahs have headed out. We're all headed to Castle Valley way in the morning for one last day of crack-whacking, then who knows, Greg and I are likely heading to Salt Lake City for some flying and bouldering/work. I need to turn some circles on my glider, I've been dreaming about flying a lot and the itch is turning into something immediate...

Canyonlands!

Every year I say I'm going to go to Alaska in the spring and try that game out, but by the time spring rolls around the call of warm rock and air is too great to resist and I end up not going to Alaska... This year is no different--after somewhere over 100 days of swinging ice tools I just can't see doing anything involving sub-freezing temperatures, so Bender and I loaded up and drove 20 hours south to Canyonlands. As we drove down into Indian Creek I realized that it was almost exactly 20 years ago that I first had at the cracks of Canyonlands, or rather they had at me. I don't climb in Canyonlands often, about every five years, but it's one of those reference points in life I keep coming back to. I've driven down into "the Creek" with so many different friends and partners, and each trip is a sort of time capsule lodged in my brain. As Ben and I slid out of Moab and down into the Creek I DJed a set of Grace Jones into Ice T/Minor Threat into Sisters of Mercy into Fat Boy Slim to commemorate the different trips and eras the Creek marked in my life, it seemed fitting.

Ben and I hopped out of the van and into the warmth of the Creek with the same psyche as I had had 20 years earlier, and soon we were up on some steep wall having at it. I always try to restrain myself the first day but don't, we stuffed ourselves full of steep cracks and gave blood. We started with the first thing at the top of the trailhead, which looked like hands but wasn't, blue Camalots all the way and much cursing. Then it was off to Gurka and fingerlocks, then some grunting corner, finishing off with Slot Machine, another mega-classic. My tape ripped off halfway up Slot Machine and a large portion of my left hand followed shortly. That route is a "pack a lunch" kind of rig for me, but totally fun, and Ben did battle on it too. Climbing cracks is a lot like riding a bicycle, I haven't done much of it in in a decade but the moves are still in my body.

Yesterday we went to Battle of the Bulge and climbed some perfect corner then got involved with Rengle something (the start of Air Sweden). I was too psyched and fell off the easy section, then sent it second try with some pain--desert cracks just hurt, call me a wuss, but that's how I see it. I wanted to work Air Sweden but gave that idea up after climbing the crack again, I can only take so much pain. Ben and I wandered off and somehow convinced ourselves to get on Ruby's Cafe, a 5.13. It looked steep so I thought maybe it wouldn't hurt my feet so much (now there's some logic for ya), but it hurt my fingers like a SOB. I gave it a couple of efforts, but the final one ended in a early-90s style full on tantrum (those who lived that era know what I'm talking about, anyone else can just visualize a three-year old in full meltdown). It's been a while since I've been so frustrated on a climb--I could climb the moves, but I couldn't stomach abusing my fingers that savagely. Eventually it was possible to laugh about the experience, but Ben and I decided that what people really need to prepare for climbing in Indian Creek is a "Creek Preparation Kit." This kit would contain two or three hammers of various sizes from finish to sledge... These hammers would be used to whack hands, fingers and feet until swollen like over-ripe fruit. Plus some bathroom towel sized sandpaper to rub all over your arms, elbows and back until you looked more like a skateboard punk than a climber. Finally, a mini cheese grater would be perfect for tearing chunks of skin off, just rub your fingers and hands with it until covered in blood and plasma. Add in some weak acid to simulate all of this on mild sunburn and you've just "trained" for the creek... I'm only partly joking.

Today we're in Moab along with the 15 or so other "Canmorons" down here, it's great crew to hang with in the desert. I think I like Indian Creek despite the climbing--it's about the place, Indian Creek just resonates with me and, I think, most people. Camping in the desert, watching your friends get worked and succeed, grinding your teeth on desert grit in the morning cereal, it all adds up to something greater than the parts. My friend Greg was stuck neck-deep on an offwidth crack a few days ago and, after a long period with no movement, Greg's partner asked him what he was looking for with his head stuck so deep into the void. Greg said, "My soul." I like that answer, your soul does indeed seem closer down here than it does in other places, just out of sight instead of on the moon. I'll have to climb a few more cracks and see if I catch sight of the sucker--pain is clarifying according to several religions, climbing in the creek isn't so much climbing as it is practicing some bizzare religion involving stigmata and the vertical spaces between the rock. As Ice T says, "Oh yeah!"

Rock at last, Icebergs article in the NYT

Well, I've finally gotten out rock climbing, great to be back on the stone! Cory and I headed up to Grassi Lakes yesterday and had at it. We waited until relatively late in the day to let the rock dry out and warm up a bit--temps were still a bit chilly but not bad, we ended climbing eight pitches of decently hard routes, perfect afternoon. It's pretty funny how weak my fingers are after a season of mixed climbing, I was falling off 5.12a routes and loving it, giving everything to redpoint 12b, super fun! In the fall I can hike these routes, but part of the fun of spring is getting your ass kicked. Ben and I are heading south to Indian Creek tomorrow for some crack action, plus I really want to climb a few tower routes like Fine Jade that I've never done. I'm hoping mixed fitness translates a little better to cracks than it does to Grassi-style pockets, but whatever, it's about going climbing for me in the spring, not cranking really hard. I think the month off with sinus issues also really screwed my fitness, but it is what it is. I've had three good days in the Vsion and one on the rock, another week of rock climbing should start to improve the rock fitness.


A story I wrote on cimbing bergs with Ben Firth is up on the New York Times website. My editor emailed this morning to say it was the "most emailed sports article," nice to see climbing beating Golf in terms of popularity, who would have thought? Here's the link, and the URL if the Blogger link doesn't work: http://www.nytimes.com/2006/04/08/sports/othersports/08outdoors.html?ex=1144641600&en=786bcc410744810c&ei=5087


I've spent some more time with the Sum from Faders, it's working well still, definitely better for lowering than Gri Gri on hot ropes. It takes some time to learn, and definitely do read the instruction manual!


Workouts:

Every other day in the Vsion, sent the double-star route into the three-star route, as well as the "bugs" red route. Yeah, so it's pathetic to be pumped up about sending plastic boulder traverses, but I am! Yoga and running too, the energy levels are back up to full bore. I'll hit the Vsion today again and hopefully get a short run in before the long drive south.

Cool spring climbs

As many of you know, I also run a web site with current ice climbing conditions in the Canadian Rockies. I normally finish this site April 1, not because the ice is gone, but because people are sick of ice and looking for warm rock. I just received a couple more cool route descriptions and reports worth sharing, check this out!

A flurry of reports from people, I'm feeling left out on all the fun, grin, congratulations to everyone who has been getting after it!

WG

Faders "SUM" Review

Fader's SUM review:

Ropes have gotten a lot smaller in the last ten years. I normally climb on a 9.1 Joker, and it's just too hot for a Gri Gri to handle safely (Petzl says the same, but many people are using the Gri Gri on smaller ropes). The BD Guide works great for belaying the leader on skinny ropes and is my primary belay/rap device, but for sport climbing/mixed I like to have a full auto-lock device for belaying the leader, and the Gri Gri wasn't cutting it anymore. In Norway I saw this thing called a "SUM" that one of the guys in my clinic had. He didn't have the instructions for it, so we kind of screwed up using it, but it worked well enough that I went and bought one (thanks to Brad at Mountain Magic for the drop-off service!). Yep, I paid retail for a belay device, so no sponsor stroking going on here.

I've now used it a few times, and I'm pretty happy with it. If you read the instruction manual FIRST, grin, it's very easy to feed skinny ropes fast and safely, and it locks down easily without belayer input. It doesn't work well on any rope over 10mm, but who cares, I don't use fat ropes anymore. The design is really smart with a sort of double-cam locking action. Faders says the impact forces are lower than other auto-lock devices, but I don't see how that is true--I still wouldn't use it for climbing on gear. But for bolted climbing it grips well and--once I read the manual-- lowers well too. I see far more people using their Gri Gris incorrectly than I do people who know how to belay safely with them, and the SUM is open to that problem (DONT PRESS THE HANDLE TO FEED ROPE, NOT SAFE!) as well, but overall it's the first belay device I've used on skinny ropes that seems safe for the leader. It's not cheap (I paid about $80cdn), but it seems to work well so far. I'm going to keep using it unless some problem appears, so far it seems safer for skinny ropes than a Gri Gri. It's about time that there was a good autoblock device for skinny ropes. My rating is "pretty cool so far."

Spring Energyhttp://www.blogger.com/img/gl.link.gif

OK, I got busy traveling and this blog slowed down, sorry for the delay.

Here's the fast update: went to Vancouver, did shows for the grand opening of Arcteryx's new store, saw friends, got in a couple of good gym workouts and hikes, came back through Kelowna, did a show for the new UBC campus, was home for two days and got one in shooting with Cory Richardson on Pilsner (first kitchen implement ascent, more on that later), went to Washington DC to help out with the Climb for Life benefit, stayed one day and got a good climbing session in, came home, went out and shot a final day on the "How to Ice/Mixed climb DVD project with Pat, Chris, Scott and Jonathon. Scott redpointed Swank, and Chris was also climbing worlds better than he was at the start of the project, great to watch. I'm really fired up on this DVD, it's organized just like one of my ice clinics with Chris and Scott as the protagonists, the video from day one vs the final day shows exactly how much better and confident on ice they have become, congrats!

Today is my first day at the desk in a long time. My sinus disease appears to have abated, and I just finished the antibiotics. Amazing how much better I feel after going off the antibiotics, my energy levels are back up to normal, I've been doing double or triple sport days the last couple of days, antibiotics zapped me.

Workouts:

Now that I'm off the antibiotics I'm able to train effectively again. On Monday I went skate skiing in the afternoon, then a quick yoga session (I call myself the "human board," but it's getting better) had a great boulderingsession at the Vsion. I'm focusing on building back into rock climbing at the moment, so lots of long traverses to get my fingers back. Ice climbing does NOTHING for your finger strength, frustrating to be sort of strong in my arms and pathetic in my fingers, but fun. On Tuesday we shot in Hafner, actually did a fair amount of climbing, then came home and got a nice run in on the bench above Canmore. My dog, Chili, is very excited to see the running shoes come out of storage! Trails a bit muddy but not too bad. It's not really spring but winter is finally ending, I am officially done ice climbing for the season, it's time to Rock and FLY!

Gear Review: BD Guide Belay Device/Commentary

OK, it's out now so I can write about a cool toy I've been playing with for the last year or so, the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device. First, a disclaimer: I'm sponsored by Black Diamond and basically paid to say nice things about them. That said, if you ever read any of my product reports to BD I call it like I see it (ask the designers, they @ucking hate me some days, but ultimately they make the gear work right.).

I used to have a box of belay devices, and chose which one to take depending on the day. If it's a multi-pitch route my belay device needs to belay the leader well, function as an auto-block for the second, and rap well on widely varying rope diameters. The "auto block" idea for the second is very common here in Canada and in Europe, but less so in the United States. Years ago my partner and I would share a Placquette (sp?), which was a flat piece of steel with slots in it. You hook it to the belay and it allows the second to fall off and still get caught even if the leader is eating Twinkies and sucking back an energy drink that tastes like liquid Gummi bears. If you're not using some sort of autolock device for the second on multi-pitch routes you're missing out, it's great and a lot safer. It took me a couple of years to come around to the idea of belaying the second with a placquete-style device, but once you start you'll never go back, it's just safer and lower stress (if you have a decent belay anchor--if you don't you're an idiot anyhow).

With a placquette you had to also carry another belay device for the leader, in my case an ATC and later an ATC XP, the grooves on the ATC XP made rapping on the super skinny ropes I often use on alpine climbs much safer. Then the Petzl Reverso came out, and desite being a BD-sponsored athlete I used it a lot, it was lighter than carrying two belay devices and worked well enough for all three rope-handling tasks. The problem with it was that rapping on two 8mm or smaller ropes was sometimes terrifying. The mini-Reverso came out, and that worked well enough but often I climb on one 10.5mm lead rope on ice and use one 7mm as the rap cord, which didn't work well with the mini-Reverso. I found myself taking the ATC XP, it dealt with two different diameter ropes very well, and I liked the security for belaying the leader and rapping.

Finally BD came out with the Guide, which is basically an ATC XP with another 'biner hole to clip it into the belay for bringing the second up in "Reverso" mode. It works very well on any diameter of rope for belaying the second and leader, and also raps very well. There's a cunning little hole to put some cord through that allows the belayer to lower a second while the second is hanging on the rope, pretty cool.

I've rapped on it with ropes as small as 7mm, no problems thanks to the additional friction grooves. It works great for belaying a leader, even if the leader brings an Anaconda 11mm fuzz monster rope, or two "hot" super skinny ropes. It also works well for bringing up the second.

I've used the ATC guide on frozen ropes of all diameters, all kinds of half/twin ropes, and a wide variety of single ropes. It's the best tool for a multi-pitch environment currently on the market.

-Will Gadd

Ice Book in German

I just found out my ice climbing instructional book was published in German--who knew?

EHRBUCH EISKLETTERN
EIS - MIXED - DRYTOOLING
von Will Gadd

Endlich ein fundiertes Lehrbuch - u.a. Gewinner des Banff Mountain Book Festival! - für die modernen Spielformen des Eiskletterns. Will Gadd geht sowohl auf die Grundlagen als auch die Spezialdisziplinen wie Mixed und Drytooling ausführlich ein. Die konsequente Schritt für Schritt Vorgehensweise wird durch inspirierende Farbbilder und spannende Erlebnisberichte perfekt ergänzt.

Eisklettern - Eis Mixed Drytooling
Lieferbar ab 17.12.2005
14,8 x 22 cm, 232 Seiten kompl. in Farbe,
engl. Broschur, über 90 Farbbilder
ISBN 3-936740-27-5, Preis € 24,80

Climbing Again!

I often don't know how much I need to climb until I can't or don't for some reason. For the last two weeks I've been dealing with a sinus infection from hell, but antibiotics have cleared it out. On Thursday I got to finally go climbing after more than two weeks off--not only was climbing with JD, dD and Kennan fun but I felt like a wrap of gauze had been removed from my brain, the rest of life just lit up. I fell off things I can laps on when fit, but it was a great day out! Got home, timed a scotch between antibiotic doses and slept like a rock, just wasted from the "easy" day out.

On Saturday Andy, Kennan and I went into the Real Big Drip, a fantastic Ghost route I've always wanted to do but someohow never have. Just driving into the Ghost and hiking into the climb brought back all the reasons I love to go climbing, most of which actually have little to do with climbing. It's just getting outside with an objective and moving around in winter, hell yeah! I had to try hard on the Real Big Drip, just pumped silly from the get-go, my body still isn't firing on all cylinders, but I really wanted the on-sight and somehow pulled it out of dead forearms. The crux first pitch doesn't have as much ice as normal, so you're looking at a pretty good fall getting to and up the first 20 feet of detached weird ice, but at least it would be clean air! The second and third pitches are also fun, but we stopped after the third as I was worked and so was Andy so we bailed. The ice on the upper pitches looks more fun up close than it appears from far away, it is indeed a Real Big Drip.

Today Kim and I went classic skiing up at Shark, the sun was beating down like it starts to in March--you can truly feel the power of the sun returning this time of year, each day is longer and I can track the progress of the sun as it climbs higher and higher over the mountains in the Canmore valley each day. The snow at Shark was perfect, it's funny how the best snow conditins for skiing are in the spring, when we're all starting to get burned out on winter. dD made a comment on the way into Hafner the other day about how we "push the seasons," or try to do everything too early. We mixed climb in November before it's really fully ice season, then come March we're thinking rock in the height of the best snow and ice season... It's true, but today we grooved on the deep snow and sun while the Chili dog beast sprinted around like a mad coyote, I think dogs know it's going to get warm again soon and it quickens their spirits also. Today there was light in the sky until almost eight in the evening, meaning there is now way more daylight than dark, yeah!

So, even though it's still really winter for another day or something, happy spring!!

Books Good and Bad, sports

I'm finally on antibiotics for the sinus petri dish living in my head--only three days in and already one hell of an improvment. Downtime drives me nuts, but at least I've read a lot over the last two weeks, here are the highlights.

Cormac McCarthy, No Country for Old Men. McCarthy is one of my all-time favorite authors, he can write more with less than about anybody else I've ever read. If you've never read any of his earlier books such as "The Crossing" go and buy one, it's worth it. I paid full hardback price for No Country, and it was worth it. His sense of the world is so sharp and lucid--if you've been reading airport junk then reading McCarthy will feel like sucking almost painfully cold water out of a mountain stream after being forced to drink chlorinated junk in a city.

Thomas King, A short History of Indians in Canada. I wanted to like this book but didn't, it's just too damn loopy with too much over-done sly humour. There are some great lines, but none of the short stories ever grabbed me. A line or two would, then it would slide off into some tangent my mind would refuse to slide toward. I started having the evil thought that this book was so popular because the guy who wrote it was an "Indian," then decided perhaps that wasn't such an evil thought but just realistic. It does offer an interesting perspective on one Native's thought, but I want more than that in a good book.


Lama Surya Das: Awakening the Buddha Within. I hate buying books with titles like this one, it just sounds so fucking stupid to me that I tend to buy this sort of book with the same sneaking attitude I usually reserve for buying "feminine hygeine products." No red-blooded male should buy a book about awakening anything within. Anyhow, this book is damn good despite its title and lives up to the spiel a friend gave when he suggested it. I've been reading a bunch of Buddhist smack lately, this is better than average. It's also lethal for insominia as it requires careful reading and reflective pauses on what's been read--ten pages of this book would put a meth head to sleep. I'm still not done with it as result, I start off with Cormac McCarthy and when the night starts shrinking to morning I'll switch over to "Awakening the Buddha within" and next thing I know the alarm is going off. So not very awakening on a physical level but very engaging mentally.

Joyce Carol Oates: What I Lived For. I've read a bunch of Joyce Carol Oates, I really want to like her writing and often do for brief periods. "What I Lived For" is another book that seems promising but just couldn't keep me stuck into the pages. I don't think many writers can write convincinly about the opposite sex, and Oates can't about this book's male protagonist, Corky. Corky is a dick, and should think more like one to stay in character.

Dan Brown: Deception Point. This book sucks. It's the worst sort of airport trash. I read it after the Da Vinci Code, Brown's most famous book, and felt robbed that I'd paid something like eight pounds for it in the UK ($15cdn). It should give anyone hope who has ever felt that he or she could write a best-selling thriller.

Jim Harrison: True North. Jim Harrison is also one of my favorite writers. I'm only halfway through this book but damn is it good, stayed up way too late reading it, a sure sign of a good read. Harrison is willing to write about the inner chaos we all live with--many authors try, but Harrison gets it right, at least from a male perspective. I'll probably stay up late tonight again. Best line so far: "....so many changes in the direction of our lives come as a result of accidents, happenstances, the slightest pushes in any direction, and on a more negative side the girl you met at a gathering you didn't want to attend who infected your life to extent that the scar tissue will follow you into old age." Yeah, that sums up more than a few situations during the first 20 years of my life.

Right, all four of the people reading this are probably about sick of politics and literature, your regularly scheduled "Sick, dude!" blog will resume tomorrow as I'm actually going to get to climbing again, yeah!!!

Flapping, Politics, Colds

Today I finally got into the air again with my paramotor. Took a while to figure out how to hand-start it in the cold weather (battery dead), and it never really ran at full power but enough to get off the ground and cruise around the Canmore valley. Fantastic, flying is something special, especially in the thick winter air with the snowy mountains glinting in the sun. There were even some thermals in the ice haze which was pretty cool, who would have thought?

Red Bull was having a field manager meeting involving ice climbing at the Junkyards (just above Canmore), so went and buzzed 'em. Bit windy and turbulent so I couldn't get really low over the ice climbs, but low enough to scare myself, wind pouring through the Grassi Gap as usual. The Zoom dealt with it well, sure is a pleasure to fly a glider that's just relaxing (I normally fly pretty twitchy competition gliders, the Zoom is a more intermediate-style glider).

When I landed I had a bad case of the screaming barfies from keeping my hands above my shoulders while flying the glider. It was -5 when I launched and definitely colder than that up high with the wind factored in, but nothing could take the smile off my face, except waiting for my sinuses to equalize from the altitude difference... Finally went to a doctor this morning, diagnosed with sinus disease from hell, on antibiotics for the first time in at least ten years starting tomorrow. Sick of feeling sick--maybe it wasn't a good idea to go freeze myself stupid today, but I had to do something fun and flying counts. Sometimes you gotta do stupid stuff just to stay sane.

Had some writing published in the New York Times, I expect some ranting responses, grin...

Politics:

Canada has troops in Afghanistan. I really ought to know why exactly we have troops there, if for no other reason than some of my buds are part of those troops. I can't ask my buds because they are "top secret" or something, but I would like to know more. Mr. Harper (Canadian PM) recently killed the idea of a discussion about what our troops were doing in Afghanistan, saying, "Debate sends the wrong message." By this he means the bad guys in Afghanistan will listen to the debate and think, "Oh, the Canadians aren't really serious 'cause they're talking about why they are here in Afghanistan." Now, if having troops in Afghanistan is a good idea then why not get that out on the table? If Harper believes he's right, then a united Canada saying, "Hell yeah, let's work hard to sort Afghanistan out, we'll do whatever it takes as a country" sends a strong message to the bad guys. But if being in Afghanistan is a bad idea then I really don't care what the bad guys think. I just want to hear some of the people both in the military and in government explain why having troops in Afghanistan is a good idea. Or a bad idea, whatever, I just want to know what the goals are.

Harper's excuse of, "If you talk about anything I don't like then you're helping the terrorists" is Bush's favorite line. I hope Canadians show more sense than the American public, who keep letting Bush off the hook with his, "You're a terrorist if you're not for me and my government" excuse. My favorite Bush logic of late is this: "Hey, it's OK if I break the law in the US, I was chasing terrorists who also break laws. I need to break the law to catch terrorists who break the law." Um, no. It's called the constitution and even the President of the United States has to listen to that moldy paper, that's what makes the US the US and not Iraq. So, Bush, you can't wire-tap your citizens without a warrant. Period. Bush should be impeached for breaking the law, not just "censured" as one Democrat is arguing for. This is more wishy-washy bullshit Democrat behaviour, I'm starting to think not one of them in the United States has any sort of balls at all. Bush has clearly broken the law with his domestic wiretapping, and the best any Democrat can do is say, "Ah, gee, you really shouldn't have done that, let's see if we can censure you a little Mr. President." This sort of weak-ass behaviour really makes me miss Hunter S. Thompson, the US needs a Hunter Thompson now in the worst possible way (Thompson quote on Nixon: If the right people had been in charge of Nixon's funeral, his casket would have been launched into one of those open-sewage canals that empty into the ocean just south of Los Angeles. He was a swine of a man and a jabbering dupe of a president. Nixon was so crooked that he needed servants to help him screw his pants on every morning."). Government is always corrupt, but occasionally it starts to fester like a boil. We just popped ours in Canada (later Mr. Martin, you were not only corrupt but deadly boring), it's time for the US to do the same with the whole Bush/Rove festering mess of infected pus.

No workouts, nothing useful, and I'm getting cantankerous about it all.