Monday, February 23, 2009

Hunlen Photos

Hunlen Falls: 280M, 5.9 A2* Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, BC.
Will Gadd and EJ Plimley, with help from David Dornian, Andrew Querner, Scott Simper and Christian Pondella.
*5.9 A2 is the standard Canadian Rockies grade for any climb. How the hell do you even begin to grade something like this? It just makes no sense with traditional ice, rock or M grades. Maybe 5.10 A2, it was kinda hard.

Still haven't had time to write about the rig, but here are a couple of Christian Pondella photos:

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Two down, one to go

I'm the kind of tired you only get after a week of non-stop going as hard as you possibly can. EJ Plimley, Scott Simper, Christian Pondella and I just got back from Hunlen Falls, located between Williams Lake and Bella Coola. Google the rig, it's big. We sent. I'm up against it with all the life stuff that's accumulated over the last two weeks of travel (four days after being in Japan I was sitting on the side of a frozen lake in Tweedsmuir park with a huge mound of gear and wondering, "What the hell just happened???), but I'll post up with some photos etc. once they are loaded off the computer. It was the best climb of my life for many reasons--people, place, effort required to get it done, climbing (no bolts, all natural gear, full madness on overhanging spray ice), just the full-meal deal on a big rig.

That makes two (the still-"secret" Jimmy Skid Rig was the first February 20th edit: Not so secret anymore) out of three for the big routes I wanted to get done this season. There are three options for the last route, conditions and travel tolerance will determine the final effort. Last year I was injured, I am fully determined to make this year the best climbing season I've ever had. It already is--getting just one of these monsters done would normally be enough, but I have this complete psyche for winter climbing right now that's pushing me to blow off all sorts of responsibilities and get out CLIMBING. The one thing I can't blow off is my family, I'm glad they understand the madness on a personal level, and that I will recover some degree of sanity when the ice melts.

Game on! I just need a bit of sleep first...

PS--The current issue of the ESPN mag has a story on some ice-climbing poseur. Don't believe the hype, but the author did a good job in my opinion, or at least he didn't make the poseur or ice climbers in general look more psychotic than we usually do... Nice one Tim.